Chocolate Tasting

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Archive for the ‘Books’ Category

A Chocolate Trail of a Global Kind

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

At first I was very resistant. For some reason, back in 2005, I had heard about Mort Rosenblum’s book “Chocolate: A Bittersweet Saga of Dark and Light,” but never read it. I somehow thought it was one of those many fictional reads giving the impression of starring our favorite food group, yet only using the word chocolate as a marketing lure.

Fast forward four years after the book’s publication and I finally pick up a used copy at Powell’s Books. Here at Chocolate Tasting And More, we take neighborhood walks in search of all things chocolate in the Metro of Portland, Oregon. However, if you are interested in a more global chocolate trail, this is the book for you.

Matt, a former Associated Press correspondence and author of “Olives: The Life and Lore of a Noble Fruit,” admits that prior to his research for his book, he was “a chocolate ignoramus.” Yet 292 pages later, he presents the reader with his in-depth polished, research notes. An intellectual “voyage de cacao”, so to speak.

Rosemblum takes the reader under his investigative wings to discover the origin and history of chocolate: from a tiny Mexican village at the base of a volcano to learn the secrets of authentic mole, to the struggles of cacao plantations in West Africa. Find tiny Parisian chocolate shops tucked away along cobble-stone streets (you smell them before you see them!), and venture through the intimidating doors of Valrhona in the Rhone Valley of France. Experience the difference between Swiss, Belgium, and British choco-philosophies. Closer to home, you, explore the land of Hershey, and a number of West Coat chocolatiers.

One is taken on an intriguing journey around the world from some of the world’s largest urban centers to some of the most remote areas of the globe. Together, you both discover the history, biology, politics and challenges of Theombroma, “the food of the gods.”

Matt connects with some fascinating and passionate folks along the way, including Steve DeVries and Claudio Corallo. He also meets supertaster Chloe Doutre-Roussel, who probably has the best taste buds around.

The book ends in France aboard his boat on the Seine with these chocolate mentors, celebrating the end of his trail. You feel as if you are right there listening to their conversations as you all float along the river.

One of the benefits of waiting to read this book 4 years after its publication is that one can realize what a cacao “psychic” Matt was in predicting some important developments in the chocolate world scene. Today Steve DeVries has his business in Boulder, Colorado, and Claudio Corallo’s company is based in Seattle. Don’t let the domestic locations of these men’s business headquarters fool you. They’ve beaten some amazing odds and today they continue to traverse and work the equatorial belt in search of the best chocolate on earth.

I’d love Matt to do a follow-up book on new developments along the global chocolate trail- and to read some new predictions he’d make in the world of chocolate. We’d all be in for another delicious treat.